The secret to the comfort of KYO WAZARASHI MENSYA gauze

About WAZARASHI

WAZARASHI, a traditional Japanese craft method, is the cotton scouring process of removing impurities from the fabric.  

Today, the conventional method from the West which allows general mass production is the mainstream.

By processing the cotton for 4 days in a specialized cauldron, the WAZARASHI method avoids applying pressure on the fabric, resulting in a fluffier and softer finish.

In contrast, the Western method can process in about 40 minutes under pressure. Even though it saves time, it also puts a lot of stress on the fabric.

KYO WAZARASHI MENSYA, The original brand of Daitou Shingu, sticks to cotton scouring, removing the impurities from the fiber. Therefore, we process the fabric using the WAZARASHI method with specialized cauldrons, which only a few remaining in Japan.

 

a comparison of the fabric cross-section(photographed using an electron microscope)

【The cross-section photo of the WASARASHI method】    

【The cross-section photo of the conventional method】

As seen in the photo, fabric processed using the WAZARASHI method, has gaps between each fiber, resulting in a round cross-section of the cotton yarn, which is a distinctive feature.

Gaps facilitate capillary action, making the fabric easier to absorb and remove moisture such as sweat.

Evaluating the characteristics of the fabric

We measured and verified what kind of characteristic differences existed in fabric due to variations in cotton scouring processes, using the “KES” system, a texture measurement system for fabric.

Fabric for comparison

  1. Greige fabric
  2. WAZARASHI
  3. WAZARASHI + Washed once
  4. Conventional method (+ dyeing)

All are gauze fabrics. We prepared four types of fabrics: Greige fabric (before the finishing process), and fabrics processed with WAZARASHI or conventional techniques.

Evaluation Method

The evaluation was conducted by a professional institute(Kyoto Municipal Institute of Industrial Technology and Culture)with “KES” texture testing machine.

Measurement items and terms of texture evaluation used are as follows (evaluation of ticking for Japanese traditional bedding)

  • Basic texture…tensile, shearing, bending, compressive stiffness, the smoothness and frictional properties of a fabric surface
  • Overall texture…Basic texture + airflow resistance + water content
  • Terms of texture evaluation …Softness, Stiffness, Sliminess, Swelling, Roughness

Graphical representation of characteristic data

The basic texture's measured values were replaced with more general expressions and graphed.


The result shows that the WZARASHI fabric is "softer(fluffier and fitter)" than other fabrics.

Overall evaluation of texture

In the overall evaluation of texture, the results indicate that Japanese WAZARASHI MENSYA gauze suppresses "roughness" and enhances "softness," while the overall evaluation of the fabric improves after washing.

This data clearly shows that the more KYO WAZARASHI MENSYA gauze is washed, the more fluffier it becomes on the skin.