Special feature: Japanese Indigo ― Beauty Beyond Time

"Somenotsukasa Yoshioka" is a dye studio with a proud 200-year history dating back to the Edo period. At their workshop in Fushimi, Kyoto, sixth-generation head Sarasa Yoshioka is currently preparing for a day of dyeing work. Their works, which apply plant-based dyes to cotton, linen, silk, and even traditional Japanese paper, are increasingly seen as symbols of “Japanese beauty” in various public spaces across Japan, such as airports and hotels.

Plant dyeing, as the name suggests, is a technique that utilizes plants containing naturally occurring pigments for coloring. The natural world offers an infinite spectrum of hues.

As Daito Shingu and Somenotsukasa Yoshioka discussed what color the pajamas should be, the idea of “Japanese indigo” suddenly came to mind.

Indigo has long been a cherished and special color for the Japanese people. In the Edo period, when commoners were restricted to modest colors by class laws, indigo was one of the rare hues they were allowed to wear. Its compatibility with cotton also contributed to its popularity, and indigo-dyed clothing gradually became widespread among the general public.

When foreigners began arriving in greater numbers during the Meiji era, they were deeply impressed by the indigo-dyed garments worn by the Japanese, and came to call it “Japan Blue.” Even now, in the Reiwa era, indigo remains a color that symbolizes Japan and continues to enchant people across the globe.

While indigo dyeing techniques exist all over the world, the plants used and the methods for producing dye vary depending on the local climate and environment. In Japan, a plant called “tade-ai” (蓼藍) is primarily used. As for indigo production methods, while paste-like “precipitated indigo” is common overseas, Japan traditionally uses “sukumo.” That said, Okinawa also employs the precipitated indigo technique.

The process of making sukumo begins with harvesting the leaves of tade-ai, separating the stems from the leaves, and drying only the leaves. Then, the dried leaves are piled up, sprinkled with water, and left to ferment in “Nedoko” (fermentation bed). Even excluding the cultivation period, the entire process takes more than six months and involves a tremendous amount of time and effort. The craftsmen who create sukumo are known as “aishi” (indigo masters).

Tokushima Prefecture is one of Japan’s major production areas for indigo dye materials.

Tade-ai thrives in moist soil, so people in the past took advantage of the frequent flooding of the Yoshino River to cultivate it. The resulting sukumo was then transported across the country via the Seto Inland Sea’s shipping routes. However, with the rise of chemical dyes, there are now only a handful of workshops that still produce and sell sukumo.

At Somenotsukasa Yoshioka, sukumo is sourced from indigo masters in Tokushima and used to prepare their indigo dye vats. Although the studio is now renowned for plant-based dyeing, it once transitioned to chemical dyes. However, it was the fourth-generation head, Mr. Tsuneo Yoshioka, who recognized that plant dyeing techniques were being lost from the Meiji era through the postwar period. He devoted himself to their revival and preservation, allowing this tradition to continue to this day.

Having worked with a wide range of colors, Sarasa Yoshioka remarked, "Purple is difficult, but indigo is definitely the most challenging."




Because indigo dyeing relies on oxidation and reduction to fix the color, uneven dyeing tends to occur in areas where fabric overlaps or where air exposure is limited. This is especially true for three-dimensional items like pajamas, where the fabric must be carefully moved and dyed in multiple stages to avoid uneven dyeing. Even so, the actual dyeing process is one of the shortest steps in the entire production.

While some plants used in natural dyeing can produce usable dyes in a short amount of time, tade-ai requires a much more labor-intensive process. Starting from cultivation, it takes about a year, including the fermentation of sukumo, before the dye can finally be used by artisans.

We might say that time and craftsmanship together have forged this unique shade of blue. Born from the dialogue between plants and air, this precious color continues to resonate deeply with people.


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【Limited Quantity】Indigo-dyed 2-Layered Gauze Pajamas Set [Kyo Wazarashi Mensya]

To commemorate the 100th anniversary of Daitou Shingu, we’ve created a special gauze pajama in collaboration with the historic dye studio Somenotsukasa Yoshioka. Made from high‑quality gauze, each piece is delivered in a traditional kiribako (paulownia wood box), carrying with it our heartfelt dedication.